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    Even during his days off, Raul Morales gets spotted by fans. On a recent visit to Universal Studios Hollywood, Morales, owner of Taqueria Vista Hermosa in Los Angeles, was waiting in line when he heard shouting.

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    He’s the third generation of his family to make al pastor tacos, their fresh tortillas filled with richly seasoned pork shaved from a rotating vertical spit.

    “My recipe is very special, and very old,” he said.

    Yet while Morales’ family recipes go back generations, and similar spit-roasted meats like shawarma and doner have been around for hundreds of years, his tacos represent a kind of cuisine that’s as contemporary and international as it is ancient and traditional. When you thread meat onto a spinning spit to roast it, it turns out, it doesn’t stay in one place for long.
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    Roasting meat on a spit or stick is likely among humans’ most ancient cooking techniques, says food historian Ken Albala, a professor of history at the University of the Pacific.

    Feasts of spit-roasted meat appear in the Homeric epics The Iliad and The Odyssey, writes Susan Sherratt, emeritus professor of East Mediterranean archaeology at the University of Sheffield, in the journal Hesperia.

    Iron spits that might have been used for roasting appear in the Aegean starting in the 10th century BCE. Such spits have been unearthed in tombs associated with male warriors, Sherratt writes, noting that roasting meat may have been a practice linked to male bonding and masculinity.

    “I think the reason that it’s associated with men is partly because of hunting, and the tools, or weapons, that replicated what you would do in war,” Albala said. “When you celebrated a victory, you would go out and sacrifice an animal to the gods, which would basically be like a big barbecue.”

    Roasting meat is not as simple as dangling a hunk of meat over the flames. When roasting, meat is not cooked directly on top of the heat source, Albala says, but beside it, which can generate richer flavors.

    “Any place you have a pointy stick or a sword, people are going to figure out very quickly … if you cook with it off to the side of the fire, it’s going to taste much more interesting,” Albala said.

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    Cracker Barrel’s modern makeover doesn’t stop with redoing its restaurants. It’s dropping the barrel and the man from its logo, too.

    On Tuesday, the Southern-inspired casual dining chain unveiled a new logo “rooted even more closely to the iconic barrel shape,” but without the barrel itself — a central part of the brand’s identity since 1977. (As for the the barrel itself, it was “essentially the water coolers of the day,” Cracker Barrel explained in a blog post.)
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    “The way we communicate, the things on the menu, the way the stores look and feel … all of these things came up time and time again in our research as opportunities for us to really regain relevancy,” said CEO Julie Felss Masino in 2024.
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    In particular, the new logo is the latest in a string of changes angering some of its loyal fans who fear the 56-year-old chain is drifting too far from its bucolic roots. On social media, some users griped, with one writing that the “changing the logo just feels like another little piece of culture dying off.” The change also angered some conservatives, too, like President Donald Trump’s son.

    Cracker Barrel has also been remodeling some of its 660-plus restaurants. The chain has “decluttered” the interiors by removing the country-themed trinkets that lined the walls and lightened up the interiors, shifting away from the dark woods. So far, reaction has been mixed on social media, with some videos on TikTok going viral voicing their displeasure.

    Masino remains adamant that the renovations are working, telling ABC News this week that “people like what we’re doing” and that feedback has been “overwhelmingly positive.”

    In June, Cracker Barrel posted an unusual earnings report for a restaurant: It’s taking a $5 million hit from tariffs because of its retail shops, which largely has products imported from overseas. Restaurant revenue and same-store sales both slightly grew, mirroring other increases casual dining chains are experiencing.

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